Western Hognose Snake
Scientific Name: Heterodon nasicus (Western hognose snake)
Species Name & Why: Called the “hognose” because of its upturned, shovel-like snout used for digging in loose soil and sand.
Size & Lifespan: Adults average 14–24 inches; females often larger. Lifespan 12–20+ years in captivity.
Native Habitat: Grasslands, prairies, semi-arid scrublands, and sandy areas across central North America (U.S., Canada, northern Mexico).
Behaviors: Famous for dramatic defensive displays—flattening head, hissing, bluff striking, and even playing dead. Naturally shy and more bluff than bite. Mildly venomous (rear-fanged), not dangerous to humans.
Social Structure: Solitary.
Activity Pattern: Diurnal—active during the day.
Fun Facts:
– Upturned snout helps it dig for toads and burrow into sand for safety. Patterned body acts as camouflage.
– Masters of “playing dead,” even sticking out their tongue.
– Known for being very picky eaters, especially as babies.
– One of the best beginner colubrids when eating consistently.
ENCLOSURE
A single adult thrives in a 20–40 gallon long enclosure with plenty of floor space. Use loose, diggable substrate—cypress mulch mixed with sand or aspen is ideal and safe. Provide multiple hides.
Basking spot: 88–92°F
Cool side: 72–78°F
Ambient: 80–82°F
Humidity: 30–50% (keep dry, but give a moist hide for shedding)
UVB: Optional but beneficial. Low-output UVB recommended.
Temperature Tolerance:
Ideal range 75–90°F. They can tolerate brief drops to mid-60s and short spikes to mid-90s, but avoid extremes.
DIET & HYDRATION
Hognoses eat mostly appropriately sized mice in captivity. Some individuals are picky and may refuse food during stress or seasonally.
Weekly Feeding Schedule:
– Babies: 1 pinky mouse every 4–5 days
– Juveniles: 1 fuzzy/hopper every 5–7 days
– Adults: 1 adult mouse every 7–10 days
– Underweight females may need slightly more during breeding season
Food Options:
Staples: Frozen-thawed mice (proper size)
Treats: Quail chicks (rarely), amphibian-scented prey
No Feed / Toxic: Wild toads, insects, lizards, anything live caught
Hydration:
Keep a small, shallow water bowl available at all times. They do not soak often but will drink regularly.
Supplements:
Generally no calcium needed unless feeding soft-bodied prey. Vitamin supplements unnecessary when feeding mice.
Diet-Related Behaviors:
Picky eating is extremely common. Scenting prey with tuna, salmon, frog, or gecko can help. Avoid overfeeding—hognoses become obese easily.
HEALTH
Potential health concerns include:
– Respiratory infections from high humidity or low temps
– Parasites (internal or mites) if exposed to wild prey
– Impaction from ingesting loose substrate when temps/hydration are low
– Obesity from overfeeding
– Rare allergic-like reactions in some humans from mild venom, but not medically significant
Monitor for wheezing, mouth bubbles, stuck shed, refusing food long-term, or weight changes.
HANDLING
Hognoses are generally tolerant and calm once used to handling. Babies may bluff, hiss, or head-flatten—this is all harmless behavior. Avoid handling too much right after meals (wait 48 hours).
They can get stressed with excessive handling, especially during shedding or if they haven't eaten recently.
Handling Tips:
– Scoop, don’t grab. Support the whole body.
– If it “hoods up” or hisses, remain calm and let it settle.
– Never bring your hand toward its face quickly during a bluff strike.
Good for Shows?
Yes, with conditions. Western hognoses typically make excellent show snakes because:
– They’re small
– They’re dry and clean
– They rarely poop during handling
– They tolerate heat well
– They can be boxed for transport
However, choose only very calm individuals that do not bluff excessively around crowds. Babies are not suitable—use adults only.
REQUIREMENTS FOR SHOW ANIMALS
A hognose meets nearly all requirements if well socialized:
– Friendly, handleable and Very clean
– Can do multiple shows/day and be boxed over a day